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At the new Autograph Brasserie in Wayne, it seems tribute, rather than pursuit of originality, is the guiding aesthetic. Inside this plush revamp of the Main Line strip mall manse that once was Le Mas Perrier, a series of distinct rooms holds more than 500 celebrity signatures on albums and movie star photos that pay homage to the people who have impacted American culture, says co-owner Marty Grims.

Fare zone: Regional Rail Zone 3 Ticket Office hours: a.m.

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And not an inexpensive or thoroughly consistent one. There's even a budino served inside a mason jar for dessert.

Whether intentional or not, I often felt I was tasting a "greatest hits" medley of Center City's best tastes. Sure, it's a relatively lightweight banana custard with hazelnuts and Frangelico compared to the dense, salted caramel decadence at Barbuzzo. Who even needs to head downtown anymore for dinner!?

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